Got the train to Laon – 28 Euros for two each way but the guide books say it is nice. The guide books also say that walking to the old town is a tough climb, but no matter because a cable car can ferry people up from the new part of town. Incorrect – this is all that is left of the cable car:
A scan of the local area reveals a bus stop that goes to the old city. It is a little electric bus that runs in the mornings and afternoons but not over lunchtime. There appears to be another bus that goes up there as well.
The old town is pleasant but not spectacular, and, unlike similar places, not too overrun by tourists. Many have probably passed out on the climb.
There are a couple of streets with shops, galleries and bars.
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame is an impressive Gothic affair but not up with the best of them.